IMG
Lara Stone
Photo: Mert & Marcus for Calvin Klein F/W 11
IMG
Models in top rankings:
PRO: It remains uncontested that IMG looms over the competition as the defining model management company in the industry. Ford might have godmothered the industry and Elite may have forged the supermodel but it is IMG that stands to make a grown up business of the modeling trade. On every platform imaginable, IMG dominates the spectrum of the NY modeling industry. From editorial visibility in the slickest magazines to the bi-annual fashion and cosmetic campaigns to lucrative catalogues, IMG's ambition towards monopoly is manifest. They have the most stars, both editorial and mass market, as well as the New Faces division that has recently posited the best performances via sensations like Daria and Gemma Ward. IMG is a consistent, professional and aggressive operation that works tirelessly for both model and client but most significantly has brought an impeccable brand of corporate discipline to an often-times undisciplined business.
CON: It's expansion time for the mega-brand which is IMG, as it adds the blue chip reps Art +Commerce to match the 7th on Sixth operation that oversees NY, LA and Miami Fashion Weeks, to its fashion wing. Detractors say this is a terrible thing for the business, edging things towards that dreaded monopoly. Detractors whisper that it's not possible to keep the unruly and sensitive denizens of fashion in the columns with all this corporate structure. But all that nay-saying has not cost IMG a single significant model in the last year which is to say they clearly continue to keep their top talent very happy (code for very rich). And that's all an amazing new girl looking to make a choice of NY agencies needs to now. IMG remains the No.1 model management company, by an even wider margin than ever before for every kind of model looking for representation.
SCOUTING CALL: When you sign with IMG what you get is a total career assessment. Goals are set and a cohesive plan is put in place to get you to the top of the modeling business, and more importantly, to keep you there. More than at any other agency, "management" in all its implications is engaged to its fullest potential. That makes it the No 1 choice for any aspiring model.
Women Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: The turbulence experienced by Women Model Management earlier in 2008 created for some the impression that the very foundations of that company was about to come apart. But then something quite intriguing happened. The bookings of models both rising (see Toni Garrn) and established (Natasha Poly) actually super-sized, testifying to the value of the shrewd experience and the deep network of connections of the agency. All the stars are still here and the aggressive scouting network in play makes it clear that mother agencies are giving this operation first choice on many of their best prospects. As a result Women has gone to the head of the class in the breaking faces sweepstakes at the same time it has been scooping up a pack of MVPs from vulnerable agencies thus boosting Women's numbers on MDC's Top 50 to an all time high. Frankly New York is now a city defined by the IMG/Women balance of power. That leverage is a massive asset for a mother agency looking to position a girl authoritatively on the New York market. The presence of that critical mass of bold face names means the Women bookers wielding the phone on the behalf of that fledgling star has a lot of muscle on their behalf. As for the ability of this agency to market a new star... the evidence is inarguable.
CON: To manage and maintain such a large volume of girls at one agency must be a staggering and exhausting challenge. In many ways Women is essentially feeding that incessant market demand for "the next new model". One hopes though that at one point that market cycle will slow down and the focus will be those emerging girls who carry the best possibility for longevity. Given the changes of the past decade this industry needs as many Maria Carlas as it can get.
SCOUTING CALL: The fact is now established that a mother agency looking to give their girl the spin of ultimate cool in NY is going to get major dividends at Supreme/ Women. Before those dividends were slanted in a haute editorial direction. Now that super-cool girl finds herself nestling in big money contract offers and lucrative bookings at the best rates. It's a brave new business model, no? The power-fusion at Women is a bold new experiment, and if the walls hold, signals that the future is indeed Women/Supreme.
DNA Models
Saskia de Brauw
Ph: Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia March 2011
DNA Models
Models in top rankings:
PRO: In the grand old days of the modeling industry, legendary model-masters used to elegantly but unabashedly set the booking terms to the clients as to the market value of their models. The tradition lives on at DNA, the single most consistent and selective NY boutique operation of the last five years. By obsessively nursing their high-end relationships with Conde Nast and a small circle of the industry's most powerful photographers, DNA is every inch as elite and successful as they want to be. This is great news for those lucky new models that they take on. A new model scouted by DNA might want to feel privileged at being selected because the track records of Natalia Vodianova and Doutzen Krous are inspirational indicators of where excellent management can take a girl. The lifetime dream of the Bonnouvriers to host the chicest agency in NY has indeed come true in all its manifestations. Legendary supermodels + impeccable management of established girls + a steady upflow of blue chip new faces = stability and security, which is a coveted thing for a boutique to gain.
CON: Thinking multi-media, movies, music? DNA is probably not the best place to pursue that agenda. DNA is a high fashion ship and sails defiantly in that one direction, whatever the industry trends to the contrary. High fashion isn't what it used to be (maybe that's why it's high fashion) and the massive incursion of celebrities onto the fragrance and cosmetic contract market means it's the Natalia's and Doutzen's that are DNA's bread and butter revenue babes.
SCOUTING CALL: The red hot results speak for themselves. DNA can clearly market a new model to the best of the best. If you see yourself as being an ultra exclusive Vogue girl, a Calvin Klein face or a couture catwalker then this is the NY destination for you.
Next Models NY
Karlie Kloss
Photo: Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia December 2011
Next Models NY
Models in top rankings:
PRO:The only thing better than being a Next Model Mgmt agent? Being a Next model. The privileges? The chance to be surge on the momentum of being booked on the fastest rising power board in New York right this minute. Imagine for instance the charts of that recently crowned Vogue queen, Karlie Kloss. Follow that up with the pristine bookings that the likes of Malgosia, Anja Rubik, Abbey Lee, Karlie Kloss and Arizona Muse command and what you have is a roster of girls critical to every powerful client in town. Next has battled brilliantly to maneuver itself into this commanding position. Breaking stars like Tati and Hailey Clauson may trust in the knowledge that Next now proceeds armed with massive ammunition in its ability to break girls into stardom. In the midst of all that recession and depression trauma that has rocked the New York modeling industry, it is very exciting to see that this powerful combination of fantastic scouting, impeccable management and hardcore business ambition has skyrocketed Next into the global big leagues.
CON: They complaint once existed that Next - which was always a rigorously disciplined business - lacked "image" and "image girls". Well that is a very faint memory given the authority with which the company has lodged itself into the upper echelons of the New York industry. That bare knuckle ambition may have bruised the competition , with said competition aching for revenge but that amazing velocity this company has built up in the last 18 months is not going to dwindle anytime soon. Next has more than proven its worth and its going to take great care with its new stars to make them models of longevity. This you can trust.
SCOUTING CALL: Any new model scouted by this company should grab the offer. The one-two punch delivered by the Wilkenfeld/Kates team is unmatched in the business. Next stands distinctly not as a vanity production like so many other agencies, but a business with a capital B. With an amazing scouting to management ratio there is no doubt that Next knows how to break a new face on the market.
Ford Models
Karmen Pedaru
Ph: Mert & Marcus for Gucci S/S 11
Ford Models
Models in top rankings:
PRO: As one of the only two universal brand names in the agency business (Elite being the other) Ford has a clear and distinct legacy to live up to . The massive shift that landed industry pioneer Paul Rowland and his team at Ford in Spring 2010 came as a shock to many. But what it did was signal the intent of the agency's new owners to render this industry giant a fully competitive modeling industry player in the same ballpark as IMG and Women. And very quickly the big dividends (especially in the form of Anna J's jump to the Ford camp) has quickly given the company a level of visibility it hasn't had in many seasons. Will this new found market relevance serve as a siren call to mother agencies? Will Ford leap to first pick status for the best new faces? If it does those choice new models can rest assured that one of the most visionary and best connected managers in the business will be guiding their destiny.
CON: The multi-million dolar question is can Paul Rowland who has built his career on maverick imaging and unorthodox beauties re-invent the very glamorous house that Eileen and Jerry Ford built? Can a manager with such intensely artistic instincts re-locate into the mass-market world of Ford with its Supermodel Of The World contests, its multiple money massing divisions and its huge corporate structure? The answer so far has been a sure handed a supremely confident "yes". The market will certainly watch that on-going process with fascination.
SCOUTING CALL: It is Ford, one of the legends in the trade. Whatever the fluctuations and changes, exits and entrances, this is one management company that you can safely bank on to remain a pillar of stability in a very unstable business.
Marilyn Model Mgmt
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Whatever was missing from the Marilyn formula in the past has been more than amply filled since the installment of Chris Gay at the head of this agency. Marilyn has always been a pristine name on the New York scene, marked by an integrity and consistency when it came to the ideal of careful management. What has been shrewdly executed recently has been the harnessing of Marilyn's long standing power as a scouting force with a new drive to maximize those prized finds onto the editorial, campaign and contract market. Want proof? Look at the disproportionate bounty of beauty contracts that have landed at Marilyn. To name check, there is Arlenis (Lancome), as well as Liu Wen and Constance for Estee Lauder. Add to that windfall the presence of a bonafide modeling star like VS icon Adriana Lima as well as breakthrough editorial forces like Eniko and Lindsey Wixson and what you have is one of the most diverse, vibrant and concise modeling boards in the industry. This is the core value Marilyn offers as a management company to mother agencies puzzled as to where to put their girls on the New York chess-board. A lot of agencies can log the cool magazines and the high visibility shows on those newcomers...but to pile up the contracts and thus the six-figure revenues on a girl? That feat puts Mr Gay quite clearly in the big boys club of the industry.
CON: Given the fact that Marilyn is running at a near all time high , a detractor would have a very hard time finding fault lines in the foundation of this company. Deeply talented scouting married to passionate and innovative management backed by a team of experienced and driven agents make for a dream formula. Super-edge may not be Marilyn's calling card right this minute but surely Brooklyn Decker and Emanuela de Paula are not complaining. The multi-million dollar question then is, can Marilyn surge to be a Top 3 proposition on the New York market? The potential is crackling for that to happen and frankly this feat requires outflanking all the nearby competition by emerging as a first choice agency for those new girls on the mother agency level seeking to avoid being tied into a big brand network. Which then prompts us to refer back to that contract management quotient that makes Marilyn the shrewd move for a New York placement on a very beautiful girl.
SCOUTING CALL: They're honest, loyal and squeaky clean at Marilyn. Now factor in that ability to seriously amplify a girl's income earning potential and what you have an agency set to upgrade to an even higher level of effectivity.
Supreme Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: After an abrupt moment of turmoil, Supreme Management, an agency that always flaunted its maverick credentials has been recoded in a new mold with a new management team. The big bonus of that new start is that Supreme jumps starts with three major aces: Lakshmi, Jacquelyn Jablonski and the divine Daphne Groeneveld. From that foundation a new taste can be built and the buzzwords at Supreme these days are "clean, classic and beautiful". The increasing momentum of rising newcomer Ieva and a purposeful dedication to to marketable models who clock those big billings signal that the experience and discipline Caroline Poznanski and Michele Pryor bring to this board will be the key ingredients to survival and stability
CON: After all the turmoil of March, only one thing matters now in an industry prone to severe short term memory..what is the new aesthetic and the new taste point of Supreme. Because the name of this agency has bee n so long associated with an experimental and avant-garde ideal clients, mother agencies and the modeling industry at large are expecting a different but powerful visual identity to reivigorate the brand so to speak. Fully trust however that the key managers at this agency will be driven to rise to the occasion
SCOUTING CALL: At the end of the day having one of the two most powerful boards in the business across the room and access to one of the deepest global scouting networks should give Supreme ever advantage to write a new legacy in its chapter. Talent much like beauty will not be denied.
Elite New York
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Elite is an agency that in its 30 years of existence has processed over 5 million bookings. Obviously a massive array of clients call Elite everyday looking for a wide range of models . As such, the prospect of this agency going broke because it is not in the editorial in-club at the current moment, is an unlikely proposition. Elite also boasts one of the single most powerful scouting network on the planet and will not have a problem finding outstanding new faces, a fact verified by the development of girls like Lisanne de Jong. As one of the two most recognizable brand names in the business Elite has the experience, connections and know how to make you any kind of star you wish to be, editorial or commercial.
CON: There is more than enough commercial bookings on tap to keep the reservoir at an optimum financial level. Security is invaluable, but the question of taking Elite to its maximum brand potential is an inevitable one that still dogs this iconic agency. Somehow it would be so elegant for the agency that pretty much authored the ideal of the supermodel to re-integrate that concept back into their booking spectrum.
SCOUTING CALL: With a network like that and a staff of experienced and competent agents who know how to work the "editorial grid" signing with Elite is a no-brainer. And since nature abhors a void, perhaps you are that next superstar ready to set things right. One never discounts a grand master.
New York Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Traditionally, New York Models has an audacious track record as a venue for some of the most dynamic new faces on the market. Its scouting tradition effortlessly ranks with those of the more directional agencies in the trade. In addition the managers on its booking board bring together an ideal balance of experience and passion driven innovation. The dedication with which this agency seeks to constantly present its models to the best clients proves that there is no shortage of ambition (or contacts) here. Owner Heinz Holba's ambition is a lot more aggressive than most might have presumed as he already has one of the most active new US model searches in motion, as well as big plans for the future of this high-editorial shop.
CON: It's a question of identity. In the same way some clients sell to the consumer because of an identity based around the idea of "directional", NY Models is an agency well poised to sell to the market if it were to fine-tune its identity. What is the New York Models look? What is the signature New York Models aesthetic? The answer to this is as simple as a striking show package or promo package. The scouting eye is there and consequently the cool girls are there, now it's just a matter of defined packaging and New York Models effortlessly falls into the directional camp.
SCOUTING CALL: If "unique" is your calling card, then a passionate and hardworking body of agents are on standby to push and promote you with every erg of their energy.
Trump Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: It's a testament to the power of a dedicated scouting eye and dedicated, disciplined management to watch how Trump has positioned itself as a stable and valid company. The longevity of Lisa Cant speaks of this, as does the impeccable booking stretch of Hye Park as well as the rise of newcomer Ashley Smith. Most importantly is the loyalty that the managers at this agency has inspired and that is very important for a girl looking for representation to consider. It's very clear that Trump is completely dedicated to carving the best career possible for the girls they sign. If what you're looking for is that totally focused and devoted manager, at an agency that will give you maximum attention as well as space to grow, then Trump will be a top choice for you.
CON: It's getting mighty crowded in the NY field and the turnover on new girls in the editorial market is reaching a cruel crescendo. The challenge then is to steady Trump's recently flush hand and keep the Lisa's and Hye's running at full momentum a year from now. Luckily via The Apprentice TV show, the uber-branding of the Donald Trump empire should mean all those Baby Ambers' in the Mid-West will now know what Trump means. And this is an agency it would not be advised to bet against.
SCOUTING CALL: Signing here gives you the advantage of boutique management, mixed with a savvy that will surprise you coming from an agency this new. The Trump crew has worked hard to make their mark and they are hungry for the inspiring new talent that could provide that firework. Besides, you might get to meet the legendary Donald.
1 Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: Scott Lipps' energy level is for most of his competition, astonishing to watch and for that he gets the prize for relentlessness. Almost overnight, 1 Management has developed a glamour quotient that many veterans would kill for with a board that ranges from a legend like Eva Herzigova to the new sensation, Carola Remer. Mr Lipps also executed quite the power move in securing a vital relationship with Elite Paris as well as Nathalie Paris resulting in a massive leap for him in the quality of his new faces. Yet once more 1 has become booking central with an office crackling with energy and activity. If you are scouted by 1, be aware that this is the place to discuss your film and television dreams, or for that matter your plan to cross over into music. That is a very shrewd move, giving 1 Management room for significant business expansion into the full service game as it matures into being a fixture. There is a focus and drive here that indicates that this company will be a major force to be reckoned with in the next two years.
CON: The superstar divas and established faces who have flocked to the agency require full time attention (as well they should, given the scale of the checks they bring in). Now that Mr Lipps has tripled his challenge by launching 1LA a film and television talent management enterprise as well as 1M, a music division, it's going to be interesting to see if his audacious energy can be sustained across all these enterprises. In addition to that, he has to accommodate the needs of a Eva and Claudia as well as Helena and Fernanda, the two most recent additions. How does he do it in one 24 hr span? We don't know but we certainly respect the purity of such ambition. That said, 1 realizes that in today's market, it's the hot new face that is going to keep an agency's aura of "now-ness" going and as long as the edges stay crisp, the money makers will keep this shop in very lucrative business.
SCOUTING CALL: President Scott Lipps is the single hungriest and most ambitious agent in NY right this second. Since 1 is a young boutique, the girl best suited to sign here is a model with a game plan for major level stardom. If you have that fire, then you will have an agency willing to match you step for step in your quest for world domination.
Major Model Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: In their own quiet and unobtrusive way, Major has secured its place in the midst of the ruthless and predatory NY modeling scene. At the same time, Major also managed to diversify their board with very promising new faces such as Daniela even as they opening a quickly successful new shop in Paris, thus opening their scouting possibilities. In a tumultuous year that saw many a shift in the NY agency business, Major stayed constant probably due to the very considered and respectful manner in which Katia Sherman maintains the integrity of her board. This is one agency head who will go that extra mile, emotionally and financially for a model she truly believes in. This is rare and all the more precious in this business and all the more compelling a reason for a new girl to align herself with Major. Again it just goes to prove that the predictable editorial management "grid" exemplified by booking a girl with (Steven/Mario/Mert-n-Marcus) for (Vogue/Pop/Numero/V/W) in order to get (Gucci/Prada/Calvin/Fendi) campaigns is not a proposition exclusive to the IMG's and DNA's. Clients look everywhere for the Next Big Thing. And that's very good news for you, the aspiring model.
CON: Ironically what makes for an excellent virtue in a human being can sometimes be a setback in the unkind modeling industry. Major is an honorable and quiet agency, not given to poaching girls from other agencies or demanding package bookings on their models. President Katia Sherman and her team are not cold-blooded or mercenary in the least so don't fear the "booked today-dropped tomorrow" syndrome with them. That said, if you're looking for a shop to practice your super-star diva plans for fashion world domination at the cost of everyone around you, this might not be your kind of party.
SCOUTING CALL: Keep an eye on the agents and scouts from this agency because very quietly they've done something right. If you are a girl of the quality of a Daniela, the correct decisions can clearly be made for your career.
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